Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Day 24-25: Viennese Waltz

16 years ago I visited Vienna and my memories of the city are still quite clear. I remember the hot summer of 1990; the friendly Taiwanese tour guide, an Austrian specialist that guided us around Schonbrunn Palace; and mum, myself and my brother walking around in the Palace Gardens taking plenty of photographs. But that is all I remember...

I had heard plenty of stories of Vienna...good ones. My Dad began his love affair with the city just 1 year ago when he visited the city for the first time. So from the moment the plane touched down, I had high expectations of this city.

First Stop: Arrival at Hotel Bristol, Vienna. (A lavish and stylistically classic hotel!)
I began my Vienna journey with my usual tour around the Hotel's surrounding area before deciding what I'd like to go and see. I decided there was again too much so narrowed my choices down to.
  • Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna
  • Schonbrunn Palace (again...16 years later)
  • Museum Quarter
  • Hofburg Palace
  • Stephansdom
  • Mozarthaus Museum
I could go into detail as to how amazing and interesting it all was...but this blog is seriously long enough so I'm just going to mention the highlights in point form!

Vienna Day 1
Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna

Exterior of the Museum

Vienna's Museum of Fine Arts. Amazing collection. Egyptian Antiquity. European Paintings. Greek & Roman Antiquities. Italian. Dutch. French. Spanish. German. Ephesus Museum.

Interior of the Museum

Below: The picture is a bit dark, but I really loved this painting. Loved the concept of a painting within a painting!
Walking the streets of Vienna...
Cosmopolitan city. Historical. Modern. Diverse. Cultural centre. Musical.
Vienna Day 2
Schonbrunn Palace.
Just as beautiful as it was 16 years ago. Loved this place. I was so lucky to have perfect weather too to get my postcard perfect photos!! I took a guided tour of the palace - my guide was fantastic. Passionate and knowledgeable. Spent hours here even after my tour of the palace. I loved walking around the gardens. It may not be the grand boulevards of Paris, but there is still something so romantic about it...Viennese perfection at its best!
Palace entrance
Walking the gardens...romantic aint it?
Picture Pefect Schonbrunn Palace
I walked all the way to the top of the Gazette to get this stunning photo!
Mozarthaus Museum
A bit of a tourist trap I thought. Basically, it's a conversion of one of the only surviving 'Mozart' apartments into a Mozart museum. This apartment is from the era of his life when he was doing well. When he had money to spend. Hence this large apartment. A lot of the artefacts are actually replica's. Overall it was a decent experience. Particularly on the 250th anniversary of Mozart's birth year. I have always admired Mozart from even when I first began my music studies. I've adored his amazing ability to just compose with what appears to be such ease and perfection. I did learn something new at this museum though - that Mozart was probably the one to revolutionise the "pop star" concept. Of course not in the modern sense of the word...but in those days, for a composer to make a living, they usually held a post with the church or the court. Whilst Mozart did attempt holding posts, they were mostly for the short term, his creativity I suppose did not allow him to stay with the court/church. Mozart was probably the first to be 'paid' for his works as an 'independent' musician so to speak.
Entrance to Mozart's former apartment - now a museum

2006 Spirit of Mozart - there's no shortage of Mozart anywhere in Austria!

Night out in Vienna - Weiner Konzerthaus


How can a Viennese experience be complete without a night out watching a Classical concert? Watched the Weiner Symphoniker perform Mozart's Symphony in D Minor K385 & Martin's something a rather...I was impressed with the Mozart piece...not a fan of Martin. Mainly cuz it was 20th Century music and as much as I love 20th Century art...I don't get it with music. Even when I DID study it in music. It's too bizarre for me. Nevertheless...great concert. Great to see the concert halls so packed with people...and they didn't look like tourists either. The tourists usually go watch the Mozart Orchestra where people dress up in costumes. We chose something local (well I chose it...)



Opera House by Night...pic was taken after eating an excellent Japanese meal not far from the hotel. (The Opera House was right opposite Hotel Bristol...)


Monday, December 11, 2006

Day 21-23: Switzerland

I arrived in Switzerland and planned to do...not much. I didn't want to see anymore museums, so I didn't! What did I do in Switzerland? I mainly enjoyed the rides on trains...watching the magnificent Swiss scenery just pass by at each stop...I could describe how picturesque and beautiful it all was, but I will leave that to the photographs!

Day 1 in Switzerland I followed my Dad to the Swiss capital Bern. It was yet another early morning for the train ride from Zurich to Bern. I was very impressed with the Bernese scenery! The last time I was in Switzerland I was in the French-speaking Geneva...this time round I arrived in the German-speaking Zurich and took a 1 hour train ride to Bern, also predominantly German-speaking. We walked across one of the bridges around midday and the scenery was just breathtaking! The weather was also perfect too. See below!

The city centre of Bern is also quite small...yet it has its charm and individuality. Being in Switzerland you just cannot escape clocks! Bern has one of the most famous of Clock Towers - dating back from 1530!! It was quite funny as my Dad and I were trying to locate the clock...at first we thought one of the clocks was THE Clock Tower, however when we saw a bunch of tourists waiting for the clock to strike 12 elsewhere...all geared with their camera's to take a photo, we knew the previous clock we spotted wasn't the right one! Bern is also listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site - particularly for its preservation of medieval buildings. (Not sure why I have no photographs of this...I think I was getting a bit tired of taking photos of everything towards the latter half of my holiday!)

Detailed view of the Clock Tower clock!

See all the tourists! There are 2 clocks as the one on the bottom is the Astronomical Clock


In the arvo, we took a train to Lucerne just cuz my Dad thought it was kinda on the way back to Zurich (not quite...but yeah why not since we're in Switzerland right?). I'm glad we went to Lucerne even if it was just for the arvo...the scenery was just so serene and beautiful! When we arrived at Lucerne, we took a walk around the area, had the best Vanilla ice cream ever!! (Must be the swiss milk!) and for me, it was cool to recognise the Bucherer watch shop from 16 years ago!! We also talked to some Australian tourists whilst we were sitting there eating our ice cream and waiting for our boat cruise to arrive. It was a homely feeling to hear the Aussie accent again after many days! The boat cruise lasted around 1.5 hours, and that was just purely relaxing. Loved sitting on the deck outside in the fresh crisp unpolluted air, enjoying the slight warmth of the sun, the gentle breeze of the wind, and just watching the mountainous Swiss snow capped mountains in the background combined with the still calm clear waters we were travelling on. Again, more photos...

Scenes from Lake Lucerne cruise...

Day 2 Switzerland was another train ride - this time to Basel. (Up to this point, all I managed to do was sleep & eat in Zurich!) Dad had scheduled a company visit to one of his favourites - Syngenta, and one that has been doing very well in his fund. He thought it would be beneficial for me to actually attend this meeting...so I did! I spent the 1 hour train ride reading up on the company from his Goldman Sachs & UBS Reports...it was an interesting read as I had no prior knowledge of this company that is in the crops protection and seed business. A company that is big on sustainable development, R&D & biotechnology to remain competitive and profitable. In order to not look like a complete idiot in the meeting, I was furiously taking notes down as the Q&A style sessions commenced. I guess for me it was interesting to actually witness in action the whole purpose of my Dad's business trips...and one of the reasons why this holiday was finally made possible for me! A possible career in investment management does look rather appealing...however I really need to get up to speed with world financial/business news if I ever want to break that industry!! (To date, I've mainly been a lazy bean counter getting by with minimum effort in my rather non-exciting career...)

Anyhow, after the meeting did some walking around Basel...can't say its the most exciting city...not as scenic as Bern...but maybe that is because I didn't spend enough time there?!? My Dad and I did have an interesting adventure on the trams though...it eventually involved my father asking an eldery guy our way back to central station (as we didn't take the most direct tram back to central station!)...he was speaking German of course...Dad was nodding along as if he understood the guy...but then my Dad would just turn around and ask "You understand him right?"...err no Dad did I ever take German at school???

On the streets of Basel...


Now I finally managed to explore a bit of Zurich on my last day in Switzerland!
  • I took a stroll around the Park near Lake Zurich.
  • Walked along the main shopping street - Bahnofstrasse - it's where all the expensive branded boutiques and numerous watch shops are located...and takes you all the way to central station (I really should have taken a picture of that place as I spent so much time going there to catch trains!)
  • Visited Zurich's most famous landmarks - Grossmunster & Frauminster (more churches!)
Pics from Zurich...


Lake Zurich


So that just about completes my Swiss adventure - Zurich-Bern-Lucerne-Basel...not bad for a 3 night stay huh?

Next update: Vienna & Prague...last part of the trip!

Friday, December 01, 2006

Day 18-20: Scandinavian Adventure

Day 1 - Stockholm

It was another early morning flight to somewhere quite mysterious for me – Stockholm! Who would have thought 2 months ago I’d be venturing to the Nordic Scandinavian lands? To the land of Ikea, ABBA, Volvo & Vikings – that was the extent of my knowledge of anything Swedish. Yes, it’s rather pathetic, but when you live down-under there is only so much of Sweden you are exposed to!
The plane landing into Stockholm airport was just a beautiful sight! Not quite the mountainous Switzerland but you could see endless green fields. It was simple and charming at the same time. Loved the Swedish design and their airport! Caught the Airport express (Arlanda Express) to Central Station in 20 minutes! There was the option to bus it for half the price and twice the travel time…but I just had to test out their rail system. We were staying at the Sheraton Stockholm, and on the map it looked quite close to Central Station…but, my gosh when you are carrying approx 30kg’s of luggage that 5-10 minute walk felt like 20!!
After settling into the hotel and watching some TV (hey at least in Sweden they don’t dub any English-speaking programs!) I spent the afternoon strolling around Gamla Stan (Old Town)…I didn’t actually realize where I was as I walked out of the hotel without a map. I intended to just get out of the hotel to get my bearings and directions right. Soon I realized I had walked into tourist territory as evidenced by numerous antique and souvenir shops and people walking around in groups carrying cameras! There’s something positively fun about just aimlessly wondering in a foreign city…I guess its clear that you are removed from reality, the comfort zone you have always known and that becomes exciting! I just loved being in the presence of travelers, to be amongst a sea of people from all corners of the earth, yet to be walking alone at the same time.
Gamla Stan is the oldest part of Stockholm…and where Stockholm basically originated. It houses buildings from the 16th-19th Century, so as you might imagine, just by walking on the cobbled paths and small alleyways, you feel like you have been transported to a different period…and for me, I try to imagine all those Grimm Brothers fairytales and what it might have been like! (Even though I know the Grimm brothers were German! And basically none of their stories were set in Scandinavia!)
Gamla Stan is one of the best preserved medieval cities!
Once the weather started looking a bit…unpromising, I decided to head back to the hotel, quite satisfied with my little exploration! By then my Dad had arrived in Stockholm, and it was almost time for dinner. We had the most un-Swedish cuisine of all – Mongolian! That was upon my father’s recommendation as he was again craving some Asian food and figured it was good value for money! It was! The Mongolian place was packed! It was buffet style menu so you could go create your own dish as many times as you wanted. Unfortunately I can no longer eat quite as much as the good ol’ teenage years (am I getting that old already?) so 2 rounds of food and I was full! Unfortunately for us the weather was rather miserable so I settled back into the hotel for more TV and sleeping!
Day 2 – Stockholm by Boat
As we were waiting for our boat tour - we saw what looked like a Swedish army/band heading towards the royal palace. Certainly made our Saturday morning more eventful!
In case you didn’t know, Stockholm is also called Venice of the North”. So the best way to see Stockholm in all its beauty is actually to go on a boat tour. We took a 1 hour cruise - The Royal Canal Tour - during midday to discover the Stockholm archipelago. Luckily the boat ride was fully covered as the weather still wasn’t looking too promising! The tour was conducted via an audio guide headset…but I guess even if you were not listening to it…it was good to just look out the window and admire the scenery. The boat went past many sites including the Vasa Museum (which I so wanted to visit but ran out of time in the end! I have to leave something for another visit right? That's how I am justifying missing the museum to myself!) – the Vasa Museum houses one of the Vasa warships that was lying in mud for centuries before they pulled it out of Stockholm harbour and restored it and made a museum of it! It also passed through many of the beautiful parklands.
Stockholm Sightseeing Boat tour - the grand building in the pic is the Royal Palace

Parkland views from the boat tour
And here in lies the beauty of Stockholm – it is a modern city with beautiful lakes and parklands, yet is surrounded by so much history and influences of modern culture! It’s hard to grasp this concept. I found a quote by Inger Berman about Sweden which are the sentiments I felt:
“It is ridiculous to think of itself as a city. It is simply a rather large village, set in the middle of some forest and some lakes. You wonder what it thinks it is doing there, looking so important”
Day 2 afternoon was spent in the National Museum (what better way to spend a rainy day but in a Museum?) and is apparently Sweden’s largest art museum. Whilst it may not be as grand or impressive as those in New York or Paris…it certainly did not lack any of the big name European artists including Renoir, Degas, Goya, Rubens, Rembrandt etc. One of my favourite exhibitions was on Swedish 20th Century design! Loved it so much! It was simple…had an IKEA feel to it but was just so much better. It’s funny how my dad managed to walk through that exhibition in 5 minutes and I was there looking at items one by one for a good 30 mins! It featured all sorts of Swedish furniture and industrial design pieces. Even the original concept of SAS airlines inflight food utensils! And lots of beautiful glassware as well.
Swedish by Design

Another highlight was one of the temporary exhibitions – A Mirror of Nature. Nordic Landscapes. 1840-1910.
With so much written about Italian, French and Spanish art, it was refreshing to see these remarkable Nordic Landscapes – and just how calming and soothing it is to look at dramatic landscape paintings to those that are subdued and peaceful. The exhibit was cleverly grouped thematically by Nordic Sublime, Close to Nature, In the Open Air, Evocative Landscape and Landscapes of the Mind, to reflect the historical development of landscape paintings from the heroic, romantic wildernesses of the 1840s to the dreamy, inward-looking mental landscapes of the turn of the century. Unforunately, I was told off for taking photos half way through going through the museum (I was never told off anywhere else!) So I don’t have photos of the remarkable paintings I saw from this exhibition.
In the late arvo, I took another stroll around Gamla Stan and particularly to the surrounding Royal Palace. The weather was rather chilly, and still rather unpredictable, but I took a chance anyway, just cuz my time was limited! This time my walk to Gamla Stan was more 'researched'...I bothered to figure out where the important buildings were - like the Parliament Building (Riksdagshuset), Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) & Cathedral (Storkyrkan). By the time I got to the Palace the tours were already over...but I managed to see the guards outside the palace! I must say for such a large Palace, it doesn't look as impressive as other European palaces with all the grandeur and excess...I guess Sweden being part of Scandinavia still has the 'simpleton' charm about it!


The Royal Palace

One minute I was in Medieval Stockholm...the next minute I stumbled upon Modern Stockholm without even realising it. I had walked way past where I originally began my journey and was getting rather confused! With all the water and bridges everywhere, I had forgot which bridge I crossed.Only later I realised I was back at Norrmalam...the commercial centre of the city...back to my familiar civiliation. The huge H&M store and a square full of people hanging out on a Saturday arvo with modern cafes and shops everywhere served as a friendly reminder :)

Again, we didn't venture very far at night due to the rain! So, we dined in the hotel restaurant just cuz it was convenient :P At least I had my Swedish meatballs...even if I had to order it from the kids menu!

Day 3 - Stockholm by Coach
After missing the morning coach tour organised by "Stockholm Sightseeing" the previous day, we made sure we got there early to not miss our tour! The 1.5 hour tour gave a good overview of the history of Stockholm and some of its famous buildings/sights. I guess the best way to show it is through some photos! The memorable part was stopping at Fjallgatan - where you could see Stockholm's scenery at its best! Buildings, waters, land and trees all in one view!

Images from the coach tour...as you may be able to tell - the weather cleared up!!




Once the tour ended, we made another stop to the Moderna Museet (Modern Museum)...it was within easy walking distance from where we were...and the walk to the museum was also a beautiful and peaceful walk. I thoroghly enjoyed the museum...I may not fully appreciate or understand Modern Art but I did enjoy the collection. I loved the Pop Art section - more Andy Warhol & Roy Lichtenstein works! I also tok the opportunity to read up on Pop Art whilst I was there - there's this part of the museum where you can just sit and read the various art books available!

The Modern Art version of the Vasa Ship that sank previously

The Arkitekturmuseet (Architecture Museum) is located just next door too...actually, from memory they are connected/interlinked...so again I spent quite a bit of time there looking at the various architectural models and writings. The great thing about Swedish museums is that almost everything is explained in English too! Read about Swedish architectural history and how the whole apartment complex living originated in Sweden too...plus heaps more! Fascinating stuff!

Next thing was getting to the airport and catching our flight to another beautifully scenic country - Switzerland!

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